Morocco: From Tangier to Fes

We caught the Ferry from Spain to Tangier and headed to Fes the very next day. For the first time in our travels our language wasn't the default second language. In Morocco they speak Arabic and then French, maybe some English if you're lucky - we got on pretty well though. While on our train ride to Fes we had a chance to witness the National Moroccan youth pastime of throwing rocks at trains. Every so often there would be a BANG! One hit our window, which scared the pants off me - the window is thankfully made of some rock proof magic coating.

  

When we got to Fes we were told it was imperative we met with Ahmed, a local who works for the lady that owned the Riad (guesthouse) we stayed in. When we reached the Medina, it became clear that we never would have found our hotel without Ahmed. There are no signs. Only a dingy alley way with an overflowing trash can and a door located somewhere in the heart of the Medina.

Inviting entrance to our Riad....

Despite its exterior, the place we were staying in was rather magnificent. The owner had renovated the whole place. It had a great roof terrace with a lemon tree too!

Note: shower for decorative purposes only....

We had the biggest breakfast known to man to start the day. We took the opportunity to chill out on the terrace and take in our surroundings before Ahmed met us to plan a new route through the Medina.

There was still eggs and more bread to come... The mint tea in Morocco is so sugary and sweet - love it. I got double every morning because Joe wasn't as much of a fan.

The Medina was bustling with people. You rub shoulders with everyone around you in the narrower streets where it's overrun with stray cats and bursting with tagines, rugs and leather goods for sale - Some from the backs of donkeys. Every now and then madmen on motorcycles would tear through the crowd. The smell of food and spices in the air is great (along with some not so great and more questionable smells) and there are are loads of local sweets too, the bees hovering over them I assume are free with any purchase.

It was of course inevitable that we would get lost. What tends to happen, is you follow a busy street and soon enough it's not busy anymore. Then with one wrong turn there is no one, except a few locals all too willing to help you for a price. This did happen to us on our first night after dark. I can honestly say, I don't remember a time when I have been more afraid.

The next day we headed to the famous tannery in Fes. The smell was rancid. We were invited to see the tannery via a local shop (for a small fee) and handed some mint leaves as we made our way up a small winding staircase onto the shop balcony. We could see all the skins being died different colours and laid out to dry (stepping over them in fact), there was a man cutting off the remaining flesh from a bunch of skins, and then there was the men knee deep in clay pots that held dye mixed with chemicals, pigeon poo and cow urine. Lovely.

Careful kitty

We later decided to explore the ruins situated on the top of hill we spotted from the rooftop terrace. It was a little out of the way and there were no other tourists beside ourselves which was a little daunting, but the area seemed to be a local hangout for families which made us feel a little better.

We returned to the Medina and found the Blue Gate (which is actually green) and had dinner as the sun went down.. We could see our terrace from the top of the restaurant perched high above the mayhem of the Medina below us.

- Kate